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After the fire, every reservation into November and December was gone.” Winter is typically tricky for wine country: if the skiing is good, people plump for Lake Tahoe instead.But harvest time, October, makes up for it – the warm weather and abundant produce compel lengthy wait lists at restaurants and At midday in St Helena the day before I spoke to Beck, the customary lines of traffic were beginning to amass, suggesting this middle-class Napa town was somewhat back in business.Finding new work in an economy largely dependent on hospitality won’t be easy – as wine country enters slow season, businesses will already have planned to pare down staff.“I just hope people continue to visit wine country,” Rene says, “because that’s what the community really needs.It’s a perfect Sunday morning at Tedeschi Family Winery in Napa Valley, California.The vines are bright and green, the sky is clear and blue, and the picnic tables are urging a long, lazy lunch in sun-dappled shade.

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Matt still has high hopes for his new business – the town centre is currently being rejuvenated, with new boutique hotels and chic tasting rooms enlivening this once sleepy locale – but he admits the fallout of the fires is far from over.I’d never have believed that, just a five-minute drive away, I’d find another winery scorched to nothing; a ravaged patch of ash and melted glass at the foot of blackened hills.Helena View Johnston vineyard’s owner and winemaker, Charles Johnston, watched his winery, which he built in 1988, literally go up in smoke.But Sharon Li, executive chef at upscale chophouse Press, tells me her sous chef – a former marine – has compared it in recent weeks to a war zone.“You could see the sky glowing, ash was flying in the air,” she recalls.

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